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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.